Sammendrag
We show experimental evidence that as relatively long unidirectional waves propagate over a sloping bottom, from a deeper to a shallower domain, there can be a local maximum of kurtosis and skewness close to the shallower side of the slope. We also show evidence that the probability of large wave envelope has a local maximum near the shallower side of the slope. We therefore anticipate that the probability of freak waves can have a local maximum near the shallower side of a slope for relatively long unidirectional waves.
Copyright 2012 American Institute of Physics. This article may be downloaded for personal use only. Any other use requires prior permission of the author and the American Institute of Physics.
The following article appeared in Phys. Fluids 24, 097101 (2012)