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Extreme wave statistics of long-crested irregular waves over a shoal

dc.date.accessioned2020-04-20T08:08:39Z
dc.date.available2020-05-11T22:46:38Z
dc.date.created2019-11-11T15:56:06Z
dc.date.issued2020
dc.identifier.citationTrulsen, Karsten Raustøl, Anne Jorde, Stian Rye, Lisa Bæverfjord . Extreme wave statistics of long-crested irregular waves over a shoal. Journal of Fluid Mechanics. 2020, 882(R2)
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10852/74633
dc.description.abstractWe report laboratory experiments of long-crested irregular water surface waves propagating over a shoal. For a sufficiently shallow shoal we find that the surface elevation can have a local maximum of skewness and kurtosis above the shallower part of the shoal close to the edge on the incoming side, and a local minimum of skewness over the downward slope on the lee side of the shoal. We find that the horizontal fluid velocity can have a local maximum and minimum of skewness at the same locations as those for the surface elevation. However, the kurtosis of the horizontal fluid velocity can have a local maximum over the downward slope on the lee side of the shoal, different from the location of the maximum of kurtosis of the surface elevation.
dc.description.abstractExtreme wave statistics of long-crested irregular waves over a shoal
dc.languageEN
dc.titleExtreme wave statistics of long-crested irregular waves over a shoal
dc.typeJournal article
dc.creator.authorTrulsen, Karsten
dc.creator.authorRaustøl, Anne
dc.creator.authorJorde, Stian
dc.creator.authorRye, Lisa Bæverfjord
cristin.unitcode185,15,13,15
cristin.unitnameMekanikk
cristin.ispublishedtrue
cristin.fulltextoriginal
cristin.fulltextpostprint
cristin.qualitycode2
dc.identifier.cristin1746165
dc.identifier.bibliographiccitationinfo:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:ctx&ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:journal&rft.jtitle=Journal of Fluid Mechanics&rft.volume=882&rft.spage=&rft.date=2020
dc.identifier.jtitleJournal of Fluid Mechanics
dc.identifier.volume882
dc.identifier.issueR2
dc.identifier.pagecount11
dc.identifier.doihttps://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2019.861
dc.identifier.urnURN:NBN:no-77768
dc.type.documentTidsskriftartikkel
dc.type.peerreviewedPeer reviewed
dc.source.issn0022-1120
dc.identifier.fulltextFulltext https://www.duo.uio.no/bitstream/handle/10852/74633/2/TRJR.pdf
dc.type.versionAcceptedVersion
cristin.articleidR2
dc.relation.projectNFR/214556
dc.relation.projectNFR/256466


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