Extreme wave statistics of counter-propagating, irregular, long-crested sea states

Abstract

Extreme wave statistics of unidirectional and counter-propagating seas are investigated, for the special case of long-crested irregular waves, with laboratory experiments and with numerical simulations using the higher order spectral method. Both the kurtosis of the surface elevation and the exceedance probability of the crest height are larger in unidirectional seas than in counter-propagating seas. Numerical simulations show that even a small amount of wave energy travelling against an essentially unidirectional wave system can significantly reduce the kurtosis of the surface elevation. This research was originally published in Physics of Fluids. © 2018 AIP Publishing